From a traditional bonbon shop to a hidden jazz club, our tipsters share their favourite haunts in the City of Light
A chocolatier to cherish
Of all the chocolatiers’ windows in Paris, Au Chat Bleu at 85 Boulevard Haussmann never fails to lure me in. It reminds me of an old-fashioned sweet shop I thought only existed in England – but it’s also very, very French. It brims with seasonal specialities and delicacies you never knew existed, alongside traditional pâtes de fruits, colourful bonbons in jars and novelties, such as the chocolate bouchées inspired by the founders’ beloved Blue Persian cats. The perfect place to stock up on gifts to bring back from your travels (or simply treat yourself).
Immerse yourself in the charm of French cinema
I lived in Paris for seven months during my university years and watching French films helped to improve my language skills. I’d attend weekly viewings organised by Lost in Frenchlation: a project set up by a French and Australian duo who wanted to enable non-French-speaking residents and visitors to experience the charm of French cinema. Every Friday there’s a screening of a new or classic French film with English subtitles. Not only do you get to explore different cinemas each week, but sometimes there’s a Q&A session with the film’s director, producer or translation team.
Nature walk on a former railway line
On a recent sunny autumnal trip to Paris, we discovered the long-abandoned railway line called La Petite Ceinture, which used to circumvent the city until the 1930s. It’s now a lovely nature walk with sections bringing the different parts of Paris together. We loved the elevated 15th arrondissement section and stopped for a glass of rosé at Voie 15 in Vaugirard station.
A deep dive into the resistance and a sculptural gem
After making the mistake of not checking whether the major galleries were open on a Tuesday we were left searching – and discovered two delights. We took a deep dive on the French resistance and its biggest heroes at the Musée de la Libération de Paris on Avenue du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy, in the 14th arrondissement. The museum brings to life the lives of the ordinary and extraordinary people who fought against Nazi Germany and concludes in an exciting day-by-day walk through the events leading to liberation. Round the corner, on rue Victor Schœlcher, is the Fondation Giacometti. Here you can immerse yourself in Giacometti’s recreated studio and, through the sculptures, trace the development to his distinctive style that bore The Walking Man I, also on display.
The best rooftop view of Paris … for free
For a great (and free) view of the city, go to the top floor of Galeries Lafayette (the one near l’Opéra Garnier) and head for the terrasse. It’s a lovely spot with long opening hours, so you can even see Paris sparkle in the evening. And if you want to try the famous Angelina cakes and hot chocolate without queueing, try their cafe in the Louvre (not more than a 5-10 minute wait).
Delicious treats in the 17th arrondissement
Rue de Lévis in the 17th arrondissement isn’t on most itineraries but it’s a fantastic spot to explore. It’s got a great mix of small shops, bars and places to eat, and has more of a local market feel than touristy places. There’s no shortage of delicious treats and artisanal petite choices on offer at the stalls, and even some toy shops and a few of the ubiquitous Parisian graphic novel outlets. Try the macarons at Maison Arnaud Delmontel, then go to Les P’tits Potes for a glass of something lovely.
House of Jazz
Spend an evening at La Gare (1 Avenue Corentin Cariou), an earthy jazz bar tucked away in the 19th arrondissement. The venue, a small house next to a railway line, its facade showing graffiti and a large painted face, oozes appropriate mystique. Easily missed during daylight hours, the pull of the night-time crowds brings everything to life. The programme flits between jazz and club nights, offering a reliably eclectic and surprising night out. Come for a drink and a dance, stay for a jazz flautist invading the stage for an impromptu jam (not guaranteed).
A basement full of Monet
On a Sunday, grab something delicious from the market underneath the train tracks on the Boulevard de Grenelle. Then hop on the metro to the Musée Marmottan Monet to explore an eclectic mixture of art, including a bright basement gallery of Monet paintings. Enjoy your market lunch in the quiet little park just outside the gallery, it’s the perfect place for people-watching.
KT
A taste of West Africa in the suburbs
Away from the crowds of the nearby Bastille, in the less-visited Charonne neighbourhood, is Waly-Fay (Rue Godefroy Cavaignac), a pioneering afro-French restaurant that focuses on modern West African dishes. I recently spent a rowdy birthday dinner with close friends in its chic but friendly dining room, as we drank our way through Ti-punch and hibiscus cocktails and indulged in pepper-spiced soups, peanut chicken and vibrantly flavoured seafood. If you’re looking for a different side of Parisian cuisine, or you want to take out a vegan friend, this locals’ favourite would be a great place to start. Mains start from about €14.
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont is a remarkable sight in the 19th arrondissement. Once a refuse dump, the park was built late in the reign of Napoleon III and centres on the dramatic Sibyl’s Temple, a folly that sits on an impressive 50-metre cliff. Take a stroll around the artificial lake surrounding the island, follow meandering streams carved into rock and look out for the local herons, which gaze down on park visitors from their perch on the 63-metre suspension bridge, designed by Gustave Eiffel.
Source: The Guardian
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