Water is the life force in Aix, a city founded on a spring by the Romans in 123BC. It’s known as the City of Fountains; a trickle is rarely out of earshot and an undercurrent of creativity flows alongside. Here, art is next to godliness and Aix’s most famous son, Paul Cézanne, is revered. Life is certainly lived well in what was, for centuries, the capital of Provence. A palpable air of prosperity testifies to this legacy while its thriving student population lends a youthful energy to the city. Aix is a snapshot of Provence in miniature, an aperitif to savour.
What to do: Cézanne’s studio, vintage markets and the best bakeries
Delve into the labyrinth of streets and squares that is the old town, Vieil Aix, on the pedestrian-friendly Cézanne trail. Pick up a map at the tourist office or follow the bronze “C” pavement plaques to see sites such as where the artist was born, married and studied art — and learn why Aix remains one of France’s greatest examples of baroque architecture (free; cirkwi.com).
Top picture: The Atelier de Cézanne
The Atelier de Cézanne is the studio designed by the artist during his last years (from £5.60; cezanne-en-provence.com; tours bookable in advance). With its high ceiling and huge window, the space is much as it would have been, with original vases and bowls featured in his work; even his wine glass. Look out for the tip of his beloved Mont Sainte-Victoire to the east. Entrance is free with an Aix City Pass (£25 for 24 hours; aixenprovencetourism.com).
Explore more of Aix’s art heritage at siblings Musée Granet and Granet XXe. The former hosts temporary exhibitions (most recently David Hockney) plus paintings, sculptures and archaeological finds. The latter, in a converted chapel, showcases a private collection including many of Picasso’s later works and pieces by Van Gogh, Degas, Monet and more (£5.60; free with Aix City Pass; museegranet-aixenprovence.fr).
Vasarely Foundation
You won’t believe your eyes at the Vasarely Foundation, an ode to the father of “op art”, or optical art, Victor Vasarely. Opened in 1976, this monochrome, honeycomb-shaped building is full of large, trippy exhibits that draw you into a staring contest through the Hungarian-French visionary’s use of geometry, light and colour (£13; free with Aix City Pass; fondationvasarely.org).
Shopping is a passion in Aix. There is a daily farmers’ market, and on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturday mornings there is an explosion of stalls from the Place de Verdun and Place des Prêcheurs. Hunt for handmade soaps, jewellery, textiles and bric-a-brac. From here, discover the many indy concept stores and boutiques for sophisticated homeware, gifts and clothing.
The coolest neighbourhood
Built in the mid-17th century, the grandiose Quartier Mazarin, just south of the city’s medieval boundary, may not be new but it has certainly retained a decadent air. Constructed for Aix’s wealthiest residents, it is now a mix of exclusive properties, cafés, restaurants and cultural spaces.
Take in the Renaissance-style hôtels particuliers (or mansions) such as Hôtel de Boisgelin, built in 1650, and Hôtel de Caumont (now the Caumont Centre d’Art), plus the Place des Quatre Dauphins, with its elaborate obelisk and dolphin-adorned fountain. Revivers can be found at Book in Bar (bookinbar.com), an international bookshop and café, while seriously refined dining can be had at super-stylish La Petite Ferme (lapetiteferme-aix.com).
Where to eat and drink
Chez Biscote & Biscotte
Aix is full of boulangeries showing off their baked wares and wafting nose-twitching goodness into the air. Here’s where you’ll find sweet and savoury joy — crusty baguettes, fruit-swirled pastries and deep-filled sandwiches and coffee to stay or go (baked goods from £1.30; 5 Rue Jacques de la Roque).
Christophe Madeleines
An Aix institution, this distinctive hole-in-the-wall bakery has been churning out buttery-soft, spongey madeleines since 2006. Choose from multiple flavours, including almond, chocolate, praline and good old plain, although the zesty lemon ones take some beating (six for £3.10; 4 Rue Gaston de Saporta).
Café Caumont
Café Caumont
Hidden within the opulent Caumont Centre d’Art, this is where to linger over a light lunch and a glass of cool, crisp Provence rosé. The rigoletto salad with lentils, avocado, rocket and a side of gazpacho . . . c’est parfait. Aim for a table in the courtyard with its water fountain soundtrack (mains from £17; caumont-centredart.com).
La Fromagerie du Passage
Cheese lovers, this deli-restaurant is for you. The menu features tempting camembert rôti and goat’s cheese salad, but it’s the cheese plate, with five kinds of cheese, truffle honey and jam, that wins. Seek a table on the top terrace for a bird’s-eye view of the busy passageway below (mains from £15.50; lafromageriedupassage.com).
Gaodina
Head just 15 minutes southwest from Aix for a laid-back dinner at this chic, eco-award-winning villa where rattan, wood and houseplants channel pared-back elegance. The menu is forever changing as plates reflect the seasons but dishes such as asparagus and sirloin steak are guaranteed to be creative, fresh and well sourced (mains from £18; gaodina.com).
La Maison Française
Start (or possibly end) your evening with an expertly crafted cocktail in the warm embrace of this deeply intimate bar and restaurant. Recline on a sofa as you sip a signature ruby red Vendôme — a fiery blend of rye whisky, armagnac, infused wine, Benedictine and orange bitters (cocktails from £11; lamaisonfrancaise.com).
Where to stay
Negrecoste Hotel & Spa
Stay in the heart of the action at this centrally located, recently refurbished 18th-century hotel with Nuxe Spa on site. Rooms are minimalist and modern but the terracotta tiles and sweeping staircase hint at its vintage. But do get up for the flaky croissants served at breakfast in the adjoining restaurant, Le Mirabeau (room-only doubles from £111; hotelnegrecoste.com).
Aquabella Hotel & Spa
Sleep above the spring on which Aix was founded at this hotel built over the original Roman bath foundations, still visible through panels on the floor of the spa. There’s more history to be had in the garden, where the pool is edged with the remnants of Aix’s medieval city wall (room-only doubles from £134; aquabella.fr).
Villa Gallici
Villa Gallici Hotel
Go behind the gilded gates of this divine Relais & Châteaux boutique villa just north of the city. Take your pick of dazzling baroque-themed rooms, relax by the outdoor pool and fine dine on the terrace; there’s a splendid afternoon tea between 4pm and 6pm (room-only doubles from £310; villagallici.com).
If you only do one thing . . .
Live like a local on Aix’s plush tree-lined boulevard, Cours Mirabeau. Pick a front-row seat at the deliciously traditional Café le Grillon, order a café au lait and watch the world go by (cafelegrillon.com).
Source: The Times
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