Even in high summer, Europe has plenty of unspoilt bays and hidden coves where you can escape the crowds
Praia de Odeceixe, Portugal
Surrounded by the unspoilt Sudoeste Alentejano and Costa Vicentina nature park, Odeceixe rolls out from the mouth of the River Seixe. It’s a world away from the crowded Algarve beaches further south, and offers excellent surfing and bodyboarding, with the river shallows ideal for small children. Blue-flagged, with lifeguards in summer, the beach is overlooked by a village made up of little more than a handful of apartments around a tangle of streets. Settle in beneath the vivid parasols at Bar da Praia for platters of black pork chorizo, Portuguese clams or fresh oysters, and book a simple apartment at Casa Dorita (doubles from £69 B&B on booking.com), most with fantastic sea views.
Saplunara, Mljet, Croatia
On the eastern tip of densely forested Mljet island, Saplunara is one of Croatia’s rare sandy bays, with three beaches: Velika, Mala and Blaca. About 10 miles (16km) from the port, there’s little in the way of development beyond a scattering of holiday homes and simple apartments, run by local owners. The other big draw is Ante’s Place, a waterfront restaurant specialising in classic Croatian dishes, with many ingredients sourced on the island, or from local fishers. Pine Tree apartments (from €178 B&B, two-night minimum stay) has six studios and one-bed apartments with kitchenette, private balconies and gorgeous sea views plus an infinity pool and decked terrace.
Weststrand, Fischland-Darß-Zingst, Germany
Between Rostock and Stralsund, on Germany’s Baltic coast, this nine-mile stretch of beach is backed by sand dunes and forest and forms part of Vorpommersche Boddenlandschaft national park. Artists have long been drawn by the light here – Ahrenshoop, the village at the end of the beach, is an artists’ colony, so keep an eye out for workshops for visitors, and don’t miss the art museum. Take traditional fish rolls from Fischkaten to the beach and enjoy the peace and quiet. Stay at Haus Nordlicht (doubles from €100, B&B), behind the dunes in Ahrenshoop. This family-run hotel has been going for over 100 years, and the sea views and warm welcome make it a special spot.
Düne, Heligoland, Germany
Heligoland has changed hands many times throughout history, giving it a unique mix of European cultures. It’s an island of two parts – the main island has high red cliffs and rocky shores, while its sandy sibling, Düne, which separated from the main island during a storm in 1721, has a pristine beach. Travel on a traditional oak Börte boat to Düne, where in summer you’ll share the beach with colonies of seals. Heligoland youth hostel has dorm beds from €37, or you can camp on the beach from 1 May to 15 October (from €9). Enjoy hearty helpings of lobster soup or schnitzel at Weddigs Fischerstube. The ferry trip to Heligoland from Hamburg or Cuxhaven starts at €90 return.
Carataggio, Corsica
Bring a snorkel to make the most of the crystal-clear waters at Carataggio (also known as Tahiti beach), tucked away in a nature reserve. Accessible by boat or on foot – about 15 minutes along a well-marked path – the beach is popular with nudists. There are no facilities, so the best bet for lunch is Palombaggia, where Palm Beach is right on the sands and offers sharing platters of local cheeses and salamis, along with seafood and salads. Ranch Campo (doubles from €110 B&B) is a collection of stone-built cottages, surrounded by olive trees, with an alfresco restaurant serving classic Corsican dishes.
Kabak, Turkey
Kabak is not the sort of place you stumble upon; the end point of a vertiginous 45-minute drive that skirts the mountains beyond Ölüdeniz, with a handful of yoga retreats, campsites and bohemian B&Bs set above and behind the virgin sweep of beach. It’s worth coming just for the colour of the water – a deep, almost neon shade of azure, sandwiched between two russet-hued headlands, traversed by the long-distance walking trail, the Lycian Way. The chic Turan Hill Lounge (doubles from £123 half-board), set in lush gardens with daily yoga classes, is just five minutes’ walk from the beach, so avoiding the half-hour scramble down (or shuttle bus run) from the hotels higher up.
İnlice, Turkey
While tourists flock to the nearby sailing hub of Göcek, locals follow the twisty road down to İnlice beach and the simple wooden bungalows that sit behind the swathe of dark sand and shingle. There’s plenty of space to park and a simple beach cafe, as well as sun beds and parasols to hire, but for a proper lunch (or early dinner) it’s a 10-minute drive back to Göcek’s restaurant-lined waterfront; head to Mezegi in the marina for the best meze in town. The renovated İnlice Ünzile bungalows (doubles from £116 B&B on booking.com) are basic but clean and the breakfast is excellent.
Najspokojniejsza Plaża, Poland
Some stretches of Poland’s Baltic coast can get busy, but that’s rarely an issue on Najspokojniejsza Plaża. To find the beach, follow the coastal path from either Poddąbie or Dębina village and then take the steep path down the cliffs. Those who make the journey are rewarded with a wide, clean, sandy beach bordered by a beech forest. Stay in a cheery, yellow self-catering chalet at Domki Klif Dębina (sleep up to six, from 270 złoty/£54 a night), just outside the village, where you can wander through the woods and fire up the barbecue on the terrace. There are few restaurants in the area, but the deli and grill at “u Lisa” swojskie jadło (homemade food at Lisa’s) is worth a visit for grilled fish, pierogi (filled dumplings) and fish soup.
Eraclea Minoa, Sicily
In the southern province of Agrigento, this four-mile stretch of sand sits beneath the sixth-century Greek village of the same name. Park beneath the pine trees behind the beach, or walk down after a visit to the archaeological site. After a dip or a spot of snorkelling, head to Lido Garibaldi for fish couscous, fresh mussels or chargrilled octopus, served on a terrace directly above the water. Eraclea Minoa Village (doubles from €70 B&B), separated from the beach by lush woodland, offers shady camping, simple rooms and bungalows, with an on-site restaurant and kids’ play area.
Es Grau, Menorca
The water in this quiet bay in the Parc Natural de s’Albufera des Grau stays shin-deep for some distance, making it safe for small children, while there are kayaks and paddleboards to hire for teens. The sandy beach curves for almost half a mile, with a footpath leading into the dunes and nature reserve behind, where it’s possible to spot falcons, eagles and cormorants, with Balearic lizards skittering through the scrub. Stroll into the small whitewashed village for seafood on the terrace at Café Bar Es Moll and stay at Dos Palmeras (from £399 a week), a charming house with lush gardens, five minutes’ drive from the beach.
Cala Estreta, Costa Brava, Spain
Craggy and quirky, a large central reef divides Estreta into two separate crescents, flanked by forested cliffs. A half-hour walk through pine woods from the car park at Castells beach, Estreta is a blissful place to swim but rocky underfoot, so bring water shoes, along with a parasol and snorkelling gear. In high summer, a pop-up bar sells drinks and snacks, but for a post- or pre-walk lunch, head back to La Fosca, the next beach along, where Waves offers fresh seafood, Catalan classics and crispy-based pizzas. A few minutes’ drive inland, Mas Valenti (doubles from €99 B&B) is an imposing finca surrounded by lush grounds, with five elegant bedrooms and two cottages, and free bicycles available.
Liseleje, North Zealand, Denmark
North Zealand is known as the Danish Riviera, with pretty beach towns dotted all along the coast. An hour’s drive from Copenhagen, Liseleje is a relaxed beach destination with sparkling blue-green water and miles of pristine sand. Have a swim, snooze in the dunes, then grab a burger from Haveje beach bar. A little further along the coast at Lynæs Surfcenter you can book a cosy wooden surf shack (from 1,000 kroner/£72 , for two B&B) to wake up with unrivalled sea views. A session in the on-site sauna followed by a dip in the sea is a gorgeous way to start, or end, the day. The centre also offers surfing courses, and you can rent paddleboards and kayaks.
Dueodde, Bornholm, Denmark
The fine white sand of Dueodde beach forms the southern tip of the island of Bornholm, with miles of quiet dunes, perfect for picnics and lazing in the sunshine, and wheelchair ramps offering access to the sand. Bornholm is famed for its pretty fishing villages and thriving culinary scene. Strandhotel Balka Søbad has rooms with kitchenettes (doubles from €140 B&B). Try traditional smoked fish on the terrace at Nexø Gamle Røgeri, where fishcakes and local craft beers prove an unbeatable combination. To avoid a flight from mainland Denmark, cross the Øresund Bridge to Sweden, then take a ferry from Ystad (Sweden) to Rønne on Bornholm (80 minutes).
Skanör Havsbad, Skåne, Sweden
Sink your toes into miles of white sand at Skanör Havsbad, on the Falsterbo peninsula in south-west Sweden. The water here is shallow and calm, with lifeguards on duty in the summer, making it perfect for families. Candy-coloured beach huts are dotted along the dunes and there are views north to the Öresund Bridge. The far north end of the beach, Svanrevet, is a swimsuit-free zone. Refuel at Mike Arvblom Pizza, a welcoming spot with award-winning dishes. Stay at Kungshaga Gård (doubles from £90) just outside Höllviken in a simple self-catering apartment and, if you wish, meet the farm’s alpacas, donkeys and horses. Guests can borrow bikes and there are barbecue facilities on site.
Frevisören, Lapland, Sweden
A beach holiday within reach of the Arctic Circle? Yes, really. In winter, the main attractions in Lapland are dog-sledding and spotting the northern lights, but in summer you can swim, go fishing, hire a canoe and hike the wooded archipelago at your leisure. The midnight sun lasts for about 100 days in Bothnia Bay, giving you many hours a day to explore. Camp on the beach at Frevisören Camp & Resort (£29 a night) or in a two-person cabin (from £79, four-person also available). Explore Sámi culinary traditions by dining on wild salmon, elk or reindeer at the on-site restaurant.
Nordhasselvika, Farsund, Norway
The Lista peninsula in southern Norway, where the wetlands meet sand dunes and the sea, is a haven for birdlife. Long, sandy beaches stretch from Lomsesanden to Lista lighthouse. Nordhasselvika is a beautiful curved bay that you’ll often have all to yourself. There are no facilities, so stock up on delicious baked goods at Edgars Bakeri in Farsund on your way there. Stay nearby at Lista lighthouse apartments (from 1,500 kroner/£108), and get your own key to the 19th-century lighthouse. The two self-catering apartments sleep up to seven. Lista Bird Observatory (which has the highest number of bird species in Norway) is based here and lends binoculars to guests.
Psili Ammos, Patmos, Greece
There are two ways to reach Patmos’s most picturesque beach: water taxi from the small port of Skala, or a 30-minute hike from Diakofti village. The lack of road access means it never gets overrun, and the family-run taverna on the beach offers succulent grilled chicken and feta-heaped salads. It’s worth checking the weather, as the wind can make it unsafe to swim, and take a parasol as shady spots often get taken early by locals. Stay at Patmos Alykes (one-bed apartments from £89 room-only) in Diakofti – six comfortable studios with kitchenettes, opening on to a private stretch of beach.
Tholos, northern Crete
If Cretan beaches make you think of nose-to-tail loungers and faded parasols, this unspoilt stretch will come as a surprise. Tucked away on the quiet north-eastern coast near Mochlos, Tholos beach is a two-mile drive through olive groves from the village of Kavousi, with glorious mountain views once you’re in the water. In high season, the Petros Kantina food truck serves up fresh souvlaki, or whiz back up to Kavousi for a cold Mythos and a classic Cretan spanakopita or fresh, garlicky shrimps at Ntakos. The Mochlos Blue (seven nights from £1,062 B&B), 15 minutes’ drive away, is a blissful six-room retreat, within easy walking distance of Mochlos’s taverna-lined harbour.
Kijkduin, The Hague, The Netherlands
Outside of the Netherlands, The Hague isn’t well known as a beach destination – but, with seven miles of sandy coastline, it should be. Kijkduin is one of the quieter stretches, but the wide, clean beach is just a half-hour cycle from the city. Haagse Strandhuisjes’ spacious beach houses (from €850 for a three-night break for a family of four) are right on the sand. Alternatively, camp just over the dunes at Vakantiepark Kijkduin (from €32 a night), where a range of safari tents and cabins is also available. There are lots of relaxed bars and little restaurants along the seafront – Beachclub Birds has a lovely terrace.
De Hors, Texel, The Netherlands
The island of Texel is ringed by white sandy beaches and has more than 40 nature reserves, which is particularly impressive given the island is only 25 miles long. De Hors, in the south of the island, is a vast sandy plain where you can see new dunes forming. There are few amenities but plenty of space. It’s a serene spot for birdwatching, hiking or leisurely picnics. Stay at Texel Yurts (from €200 a night, sleeps two) in the dunes at the Loodsmansduin campsite or find campgrounds and family-run B&Bs all over the island. Pick up supplies from one of Texel’s farm shops. Travel to the island from Amsterdam by taking the train to Den Helder (1¼ hours), then the ferry to Texel (20 minutes). Once on the island, it’s easy to explore by hiring a bike or hopping on the local bus service.
source: The Guardian
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